Bogart Slept Here, Burton Proposed Here: Inside Splendido, the Hotel Above Portofino

Most famous places disappoint you a little. The photos were better, the crowds are worse, and the "hidden gem" has a gift shop. Portofino is the rare exception. You come around the last bend of a narrow coastal road, the harbor opens up below you — pastel houses, yachts, a church on the hill — and it looks exactly like the postcard. Maybe better.

And high above that harbor, in a 16th-century monastery the monks gave up on because pirates kept raiding it, sits the hotel that Hollywood made famous: Splendido. This is destination #6 on our 10 Places the People-in-the-Know Actually Go list, and it may be the most romantic one yet.

From pirates to Bogart

The building started as a Benedictine monastery. The monks abandoned it in the 1500s after repeated raids by Saracen pirates, and it sat empty until an aristocrat, Baron Baratta, turned it into his family's summer house in the 1800s. It became a hotel in the early 1900s.

Then the 1950s happened. Americans discovered Portofino, and Splendido became the place to stay. Humphrey Bogart, Lauren Bacall and Ava Gardner stayed while filming The Barefoot Contessa. Clark Gable, Winston Churchill and the Duke of Windsor all passed through. Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton made it one of their hideaways — the story goes that Burton proposed on one of the wisteria-covered terraces. More recent guests have included Dua Lipa, according to Vogue.

That's the thing about this hotel: the guest book is half of the attraction.

It just got a three-year makeover

Splendido reopened in June 2025 after a three-year restoration by designer Martin Brudnizki — new rooms, Genoese terrazzo floors, local ceramics, a new bar and a Dior Spa in the garden. In 2026 it was named #60 on the World's 50 Best Hotels extended list.

The essentials, from Belmond's own pages:

• 53 rooms and suites, from cozy rooms to big signature suites
• Heated saltwater pool looking over the gulf — the photo everyone takes
• Two restaurants, a cocktail bar, a tennis court, a gym and the Dior Spa
• Villa Beatrice, a private villa in the gardens for families or friends traveling together
• A free shuttle down to the harbor

Up the hill or on the water? Pick your hotel

Belmond runs two hotels here, and they're very different trips.

Splendido (up the hill) is the classic: views, the pool, gardens, quiet. You look down on Portofino instead of being in it. It's about a 10-minute walk down to the harbor — and, importantly, a steeper walk back up.

Splendido Mare (on the harbor) is just 14 rooms right on Portofino's little piazza, with its own restaurant and bar. Step out the door and you're in the middle of the evening stroll. Guests also get access to the pool and facilities at the hilltop hotel, and there's a shuttle between the two.

Our take for the 55+ traveler: if your knees or hips complain on hills, Splendido Mare or the shuttle will be your best friend. If you want to sit by a pool with a book and a view and not move for three days, go up the hill.

What does it cost?

Let's be honest: this is a splurge. Rates move a lot by season and room. Recent published reviews quoted starting rates of roughly €1,000 to €1,900 a night for an entry room at the hilltop hotel, depending on the month — and suites run many times that. At about $1.12 per euro, €1,000 is roughly $1,120 a night before taxes.

The smart move: check the live rate on Belmond's site for your exact dates, and ask for a written quote that spells out what's included (breakfast, taxes, the city tax, transfers).

Ways to make it more doable:

• Go in shoulder season — spring and early fall are calmer, cooler and usually cheaper than July and August.
• Do one or two nights, not seven. Stay nearby in Santa Margherita Ligure or Rapallo, then treat Splendido as the grand finale.
• Just come for lunch or a drink. A sunset cocktail on the terrace gets you the view and the story for a fraction of the room rate. Reserve ahead.

When it's open

Splendido is a seasonal hotel. It closes for the winter, typically from early November to early March, so don't plan a Christmas trip here. Check Belmond's site for the exact opening dates for 2027 before you book flights.

Getting there

• Fly into Genoa. The hotel is about an hour's drive from Genoa Airport. Ask the hotel to arrange a car — the final road is narrow and winding.
• Or take the train along the coast to Santa Margherita Ligure, then a short taxi, bus or boat ride into Portofino.
• Driving yourself? Think twice. The road is tight, and parking in the village is very limited. Most people are happier letting someone else drive.
• Arrive by boat from Santa Margherita or Camogli in season — it's the most beautiful way in.

What to do while you're there

• Walk up to Castello Brown and the lighthouse. Easy-to-moderate paths, unbeatable harbor views.
• Take the boat to San Fruttuoso, a tiny abbey on a beach you can only reach by sea or on foot.
• Eat pesto where it was born. Liguria is pesto country — order trofie al pesto and focaccia and thank us later.
• Do nothing on the terrace. Honestly, this is the main activity.

The 55+ checklist before you book

• Hills and steps: Portofino is built on slopes and cobblestones. Pack good walking shoes and use the shuttle.
• Room location: ask for a room with fewer stairs, and ask about elevator access.
• Health coverage: original Medicare generally doesn't cover care outside the U.S. Check your Medigap or Medicare Advantage plan, and look at travel medical insurance and medical evacuation coverage before you go. (We covered that in our evacuation story.)
• Medications: carry them in your hand luggage with copies of prescriptions.
• Budget the "extras": drinks, lunches, boat rides and the city tax add up fast in Portofino.

Quick answers

Is Splendido worth it? For a milestone — an anniversary, a retirement, a big birthday — yes. For a regular vacation, do one or two nights or just come for sunset drinks.

Which hotel is easier for walking? Splendido Mare, right on the harbor.

When can I go? Roughly March through October. It closes in winter.

How do I get there? Fly to Genoa, then about an hour by car.

Planning a big trip like this is a lot easier when your retirement income plan is already sorted. If you want to make sure the money is there for the bucket list, join our Retirement Webinar: Setting the Stage for 2027.

Sources: Belmond, Splendido hotel page and Splendido Mare hotel page; Belmond, Splendido history; Vogue, June 18, 2025; Belmond Hotel Splendido history. Rates are approximate and change by season — confirm with the hotel. Cover image is AI-created. Checked October 11, 2026. This is general travel information, not medical, insurance or financial advice.